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It is just past noon and I have a broad smile plastered onto my face. I have just cycled over my first mountain pass since New Zealand and am now flying down the other side, leaning into the switchbacks with reckless abandon and savouring the cooling wind on my skin. I...

I wake to the sound of my watch alarm and open my eyes. It is 5am and still dark, but I feel rested. I pull on my socks, get dressed and climb out of the tent to light my stove. While I wait for the water to boil I quickly shake the dew off my tent and pack it up. The...

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